zakkaArt

#handsewpatchwork Block 10: Spring Beauty

Have anyone tried hand sewing your zipper pouch? I certainly hope so! I can't wait to see everyone's pretty pouches!

This week's block has been kinda hard on me. I admit it requires a little more patience. From matching of fabrics to sewing the pieces together. Oh well, if you do follow my instagram, my initial fabric combination was disastrous. I had to unpick and pull out my box to choose the fabrics all over again. Then when the block was completed, I did not quite like it. Maybe a little too red or too many confusing prints together?

Anyway, I'll still use it for this tutorial post. And of course, I'll make a new one to make up for this!

The sewing of this block is quite straightforward. Dealing with curves that's all. And most importantly, to pin from centre then outwards to match the points accurately.

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Before we start, I would like to answer one of the doubts about cutting templates of curves or repeating pieces. The question is: how to ensure that seam allowance is consistent throughout?

I'm not sure if I shared this method before in my previous blog but this is how I cut my templates when there are curves or when the same template needs to be reused again many times (for instance, making quilts).

Here's how I do it:

Penknife is my best buddy for this method definitely. First, glue the paper template on a cardboard. Use a ruler to draw your desired seam allowance (I always use 1cm) around the template. Then cut away the centre paper template part using a sharp penknife, leaving the seam allowance intact. Finally use a scissors to cut out the cardboard template.

And here is how I cut blunt the sharp points by placing the 1cm mark on the ruler at the pointy edge.

See, in this way, there's not a need to keep redrawing the seam allowance on the fabric each and every time! >.<

I hope my explanation for this question is clear enough to understand. Feel free to drop me a mail if you still have any other enquires!

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Okay now let's start with sewing this week's block spring beauty.

*Note: If you are joining us to sew for the first time, welcome! Please refer to the basics of hand sewing in previous posts because I will not be explaining again from now and subsequent posts.

Download Template 10 Spring Beauty.

Cut out your fabrics using the template method as explained above. Arrange them to your liking.

We shall sew from the centre of block. Pin number 1 (petal) to 3. If necessary, give a few snips on the seam allowance to make your pinning easier. Sew from end to point (pointed tip of petal). Fold seam towards petal (darker fabric). Do the same way for the other pieces.

Sew the left sets together. Then the right sets.

Then join the two above sets together. It's a little tricky here and it's hard for me to take pictures by myself to show how I did it. So i'm attaching a picture from the book for a clearer idea. It's very important to pin from the centre outwards to match the points. Sew from end-to-end.

Now you have the centre part of block completed.

Next is the outer part. Sew number 2 to 1 (petal) from end-to-point (pointed tip of petal) too. Do the same to the other side of petal. Fold seam towards petal. Repeat for the other three sets.

Lastly, join all the sets together by sewing from end-to-end. Sew the opposite sides first. Open up and fold seams outwards. Make sure the petal points are matched using pins and seams are sewn down too. Sew the last two opposite sides. Fold seams outwards.

Iron down the seams. This is how the back should look like.

That's it! You have completed block 10 spring beauty! There are only a few steps to this block but many curved pieces to sew together!

^^For cross referencing if you have the book, this patchwork block is at page 91.~please subscribe to this blog if you are following this sew-a-long. I may not post new blocks on the same day every week.~

#handsewpatchwork Zipper pouch tutorial (Japanese zakka handsewing technique)

Seriously, I was quite apprehensive to suggest hand sewing a zipper pouch for our #handsewpatchwork sew-a-long. The last time I entirely hand sew a zipper pouch was years ago. That was before I bought my first sewing machine. I always think whoever invented the sewing machine must be a genius. It's one of the best inventions ever. After buying a sewing machine, my life changed. I depended very much on it for all kinds of sewing, except hand quilting. It saved so much of my time and energy especially when I have three kids trotting around me everyday. So much so that I have forgotten the pleasure of hand sewing. It was quite a sad thing for me.

So when the week of making this tutorial finally arrived, I was in panic. There were so many WIP on my table and my days were occupied with the daily routine of chores and kids. Handsewing takes a great deal of time and patience (both which I lack for the past few years). I was so tempted to bring out the machine from the cupboard.

When I finally had the chance to sit down last week and think about my love for hand sewing, everything just fell into place. Once I picked up my needle, I couldn't stop sewing. I just could not stop at any stitch. My hand sewing mojo was back.

Well here I am, trying to tell everyone reading this blog that hand sewing is really something all of us should try at least once. When I say hand sewing, it doesn't mean just hemming the pants or sewing buttons on shirts. It's using the needle with your hand to make something you like or something you can use or admire. It's not tough at all to handsew. If you can use gadgets like sewing machine, hand sewing should be just second nature. And you don't have to worry about faulty machines or space constraint. Handsewing is just so easy and therapeutic. It makes you feel at peace and calm with every single stitch.

Now you think I might just store my sewing machine forever. Of course not. I need it when my fingers need a break or when I have other non-zakka kind of sewing.>.<

I am so in love with this pouch. Really.

It's spacious with a base. And a really pretty zipper too.

The hand quilting details are my favourite too. I drew leaves because the centre block is a flower.

And I added lace too just because I love lace.

I always use the same method to sew zipper pouches and I don't really make measurements. I just sew according to my needs and likings. There may be some variations for different pouches but the basics are the same:
- hand quilt three layers together (top, batting, lining)
- hand binding the raw edges of seam allowances

I call this the Japanese zakka technique, in my own way of saying.

Of course, if you think hand sewing the entire pouch sounds daunting, you may wish to use the sewing machine at some points.

Now let's start with the tutorial!

First, choose one of your #handsewpatchwork blocks to make your pouch. I chose block 8 Mayflower.

Next, choose your zipper. You can choose any length of zipper. If you choose a longer zipper like me, please add fabric borders to the patchwork block so that the zipper can be as long as the width of the patchwork. Feel free to add any embellishment like lace or buttons or appliqué. Then join a bigger piece of fabric to make you base and back of pouch. You may square up the sides. Choose lining fabric too.

Use short running stitches to join the fabric borders to the block just like how you sew any patchwork block.

Pin the three layers (top, batting, lining) together and hand quilt according to your desire pattern.

Here's my measurements (cm) for the pouch. You can change to your desired size.

*It's important to learn how to hide your knots during hand sewing and quilting. After you tie a knot, poke the needle back into the same hole and out from another side (about 1-3cm) away from the hole. Give a tug to the thread so the knot will disappear into the hole. Then snip the thread close to the fabric.*

Now cut binding fabric. I always use single-fold binding since I don't wish to waste my precious fabrics. I cut two strips of 4cm width for the top and bottom and 4.5cm width for the sides. Why 4.5cm for the sides? It's because later on when we join the sides of the pouch, there will be six layers of fabric and batting together so we need a wider binding.

Handsew the 4cm width binding to the top and bottom using backstitch.

Next is the zipper. Many people are afraid of sewing zippers. I think they are way easier to hand sew than machine sew! Just take the zipper, line the teeth to the edge of the binding, pin in place, backstitch! It's really that simple! Then to sew down the lower side of zipper, you can choose to use blind stitch or X-stitches. I always use the latter because they are prettier.

This is how I do the X-stitching. I like to turn the pouch so the teeth of zipper faces me because it's less bulking to move around.

Now you have sewn the zipper, draw a 1cm seam allowance and join the sides of the pouch using backstitches and then sew the binding. OR if you are lazy like me, you can sew the 4.5cm width binding fabric at the same time you are joining the sides. The 1cm seam allowance is drawn on the binding fabric. In this way, you don't have to sew the same part twice.

**Always remember to make sure that the binding is about 2cm (1") longer at the tail-end because we need to wrap the tail-end to finish off the binding.**

You can see from the pictures that I didn't sew from the base of the pouch. Instead, my stitching starts about 2cm (1") from the base. This is because I have planned to make a 2cm base to the pouch and I don't wish to "waste" my stitches.

This is how you bind the tail-end. Clover wonder clips are amazing help to secure the folds in place.

Here comes the last part of sewing the pouch - to make a base. If you choose not to make a base, you can omit this step and sew all the way for the sides of the pouch.

Use a ruler to help you decide how wide you wish to sew the base. I decided on 2cm wide base. So place the ruler and find the centre, draw a line and snip off the tip after the 1cm seam allowance. Then use the binding fabric to bind the raw edges. Make sure to extend the binding fabric so that you can wrap up the sides.

That's it! Your zipper pouch is completed!

I promise you will feel a great sense of satisfaction once you finish the last stitch! It's just feels so good and so unbelievable! Spread the word of hand sewing to your friends and family! xxx

#handsewpatchwork Block 9: Yacht

*If you are following my IG, you may have known that I have been dealing with migraine for the past week. Migraine is awful because I just simply can't get anything done. Sorry I have to delay the tutorial post for the zipper pouch. I'm still working on it. I'm really hoping to finish this sew-a-long before Christmas so that everyone can get your beautiful work hung up the wall for the magical season. So I'm continuing with the next block to keep the ball rolling.*

##Sorry for the poor pictures! >.< The pictures are very dull and pixelated. They were taken in the late evening.##

This block is one of the easiest block to make. No fancy Y-seams or curves to manage. Just sewing from end-to-end that's all. I needed to a quick block and this block has been on my mind ever since Tasha, Jesse and Kerri did their versions. Their nautical blocks were really beautiful and so inspiring.

Frankly, I'm not really satisfied with the block. It's just not me. The colours and the wonky sewing. My head wasn't feeling right so I was trying to quickly get it done. Well, I may sew another one when I have the time.

So let's get started. There are only a few pictures for this block because it's too straightforward!

Download Template 9 Yacht. Cut out the templates and arrange them according to your liking.

First we'll sew the four sails together. Easy peasy. Sew from end-to-end for all. Fold seams towards darker fabric.

Join the top and bottom sails together to get two sets. Here I fold the the seams in opposite directions for each set to ease the bulk for sewing later (**in the book, the seams are folded in same directions for both sets).

Now sew the two sets together. Remember to pin from the centre first. Sew from end-to-end. Fold seam either to left or right (it doesn't matter for now).

Sew the two side rectangles to the sails. Sew from end-to-end again. Here you have to fold all seams in the same direction.

There you go, the top part is completed.

Now the centre part is to just sew the two triangles to the boat. Sew from end-to-end. Fold seams towards darker fabric.

Lastly, join the three parts together.

Fold seams towards the boat.

There you are, your yacht is ready to sail!

^^For cross referencing if you have the book, this patchwork block is at page 192.

~please subscribe to this blog if you are following this sew-a-long. I may not post new blocks on the same day every week.~

#handsewpatchwork Block 8: Mayflower

*I have never imagined we will go this far for #handsewpatchwork. It's really amazing how social media can bring people who are all so far apart to be doing something together. I know there are many of you out there joining this hand sewing journey quietly behind the computers. I'm very grateful to hear all the good and bad things about each block post. Thank you for motivating me to continue to work harder and write up my own designs to share.*

This week's block is another easy flower although it requires a little bit of patience at the last part of joining. It's called Mayflower. I have seen this beautiful flower block in many quilts but I have never tried them. Now I'm regretting I didn't try it earlier. It's really pretty. I should make a big quilt of this flower.

Download Template 8 Mayflower-2.

Arrange templates according to how you wish to patch them. Divide them into four groups as in the picture above. We will sew them one group each time but the sewing method is the same for all the groups.

Choose one group and sew template 1 and 2 from end-to-end. Open up and press seam towards flower (darker fabric).

Now sew template 3 from end-to-point (centre). Press seam towards flower too.

You have completed one group. Do the same to the other three groups.

Here's how the four groups should look like.

Then join the upper groups together first by sewing from end-to-point then point-to-point. Press seam towards flower. Do the same to the lower groups.

Lastly to join the two upper and lower groups together.

Pin part by part. Start from first part sew from end-to-point. Unpin and pin the centre part and sew from point-to-point.

This is how the centre should look like. It's straightforward of just sewing across.
Then unpin and pin the last part. Sew from point-to-end. Fold all seams towards flower. That's it!

The back of the block looks like this.

Isn't this one of the easiest block, other than the bow-tie? And now you have another block to add to this sew-a-long!

Next week, we will try to use one of the blocks to make a zipper pouch. I'll show you how I usually hand sew zipper pouches. Yes, hand sewing again! Spread the words and join me next week!xxx

^^For cross referencing if you have the book, this patchwork block is at page 184.

~please subscribe to this blog if you are following this sew-a-long. I may not post new blocks on the same day every week.~

Cheerios zipper pouch

With leftover scraps from Rise & Shine mini quilt, I had planned to make another mini one with the scrap fabrics. The most perfect pattern would be the Cheerios mini quilt, also by Thimbleblossoms! It's a free pattern published at Love Quilting Magazine May Issue 8 (yes, i'm a digital subscriber because I can't resist a great magazine!).

The pattern is easy to follow and so quick to sew too. Just like the. So instead of sewing nine blocks to make the mini quilt, I sewed ten.

When I was about to patch the blocks, I spotted a lonely aqua zipper lying on my table. It was calling me "Use me! Use me!".

So I had to use it of course.

I chose four of the blocks and sewed them together. Hand quilted around the yummy colourful cheerios with a thin layer of batting below. Rummaged through my stash for the perfect green fabric for the back and machine quilted it with another layer of batting. In less than an hour, I made a really pretty pouch!

Look at the aqua zipper! Doesn't it look perfect in this pouch...? I think it's really awesome to have your ideas worked out immediately when you see something that inspired you at that very moment. I love that feeling really.

And if you know me, you know I always need to choose a decent fabric for lining too. It makes me feel happy to open up a pouch or bag to see that inside is beautiful too.

This zipper pouch is squarish and big enough to store at least two of my yarn balls. I can squeeze in another, maybe smaller, one too.

Since I still have another six blocks to make into something else, I'll put this pouch in my etsy shop so someone else can enjoy it too! xxx

#handsewpatchwork Block 7: Shakuyaku Flower

*Sorry for this late post! I'm a week late to post this block due to some hiccups in my daily routine last week. Nevertheless, this week's block should be not too difficult to complete!*

*edit: I did not realise my patchwork (pink petal) is dirtied by dirty iron until I upload this picture! =( *

Shakuyaku flower is also known as peony. It's a really beautiful flower that grows very well and healthy easily in normal soil conditions (not too waterlogged or dry). I love this flower a lot especially during Chinese New Year season because it represents good fortune and good luck! So when I saw this patchwork in the book, I had to make it! It's just so pretty to look at!

There's nothing new in this block. Only Y-seams and hand sewing appliqué. I had intended to make this after the basket block but there were some issues with hand appliqué-ing the basket handle so I chose a simpler ribbon block for previous week. Now I think most of you already master how to hand appliqué? For the stem of this peony flower, it's even easier because it's not so curvy.

And for the diamonds, perhaps most of us are used to english paper piecing (even for hexagons and octagons). But it's actually very easy to do it in the Japanese way. Only Y-seam! So don't worry. You will realise another kind of enjoyment to sew diamonds or hexies in a new way.

I'll not repeat the steps to hand appliqué in this post. Please refer to block 5 basket for explanations and pictures.

Let's get started now. Download Block 7 Shakuyaku Flower. (note: I hand-drew the stem and leaf using a compass mathematical tool because I still cannot seem to use TouchDraw to do so. You can re-draw the leaf to your liking. It doesn't really matter.)

Cut templates according to the labelled numbers. Remember not to cut out the stem and leaf templates first. Paste them on a cardboard, cut and trace them on your desired fabrics. Leave 1cm (or 1/4in) seam allowance throughout and cut the fabrics out.

Arrange the fabric templates before you start sewing. It's easier to visualise in this way.

First we'll sew group A. Sew the two diamonds together from point-to-point. Fold seam towards darker fabric (all seams will follow this direction for rest of diamonds).

Then sew the triangle using Y-seam technique from end-to-point then point-to-end. Fold seam downwards towards the diamonds. Repeat for the other group A.

Now to connect the two group As together. Pin and sew from point-to-point. Fold seam in the same direction.

Now sew the corner square. It's Y-seam technique again. So sew from end-to-point then point-to-end. Easy peasy! Fold seams downwards towards the diamonds.

We will sew the group B leaves now. I'm doing this part and the later stem/leaf hand appliqué part different from the book. If you do realise, my templates are divided slightly different from the book too. For me, it's much easier to do it in my way. You can choose to follow my way or the book's instructions. Both ways will still produce the same block anyway.

Sew small triangle (number 4) to the leaf diamond from end-to-end. Fold seam towards the leaf. Repeat on the other group B.

Now sew the leaves to the flowers from point-to-point. Fold seams in the same direction.

Then sew the corner squares to join the flower to the leaf from end-to-point then point-to-end (Y-seam skill). Fold seams towards the flower.

See, you have completed the flower (sans the stem and small leaf)!

Here comes the hand appliqué for the stem. We will use the same technique of sewing the basket handle to sew the stem here. Just remember to flip the stem template when drawing on the fabric because it's mirror image..

Before I forget to show, this is how the stem and leaves are sewn in the book.

For the leaf, it will be very much preferred to use needle turn technique but I was too lazy to do so. So I used the "yo-yo method" by using running stitch around the leaf template (together with cardboard as guide) then give the thread a tight pull and tie a knot. Use hot iron to iron it down.

Remove the cardboard, pin leaf fabric template down to desired position then hand appliqué.

++I'll show how to do proper needle turn for the leaf in another post!++

Now for the final part is to sew everything together! Remember to fold seams towards the flower!

Here you go! The pretty Shakuyaku Flower!

^^For cross referencing if you have the book, this patchwork block is at page 78.

~please subscribe to this blog if you are following this sew-a-long. I may not post new blocks on the same day every week.~

Ribbon mini wall hanging quilt with yo-yos

Yoyos are my favourite. They are easy to sew and therapeutic too. Especially when you need some peaceful moments to yourself.

I needed something pretty to occupy the empty space on the wall today. Something nice to look at. So I took out the ribbon block (from #handsewpatchwork sew-a-long) which I have been working on. My initial plan was to make a coaster for my mug. But then, I decided that it should be on the wall instead. With my yo-yos.

Everything is hand sewn from the patchwork to the quilting to the binding and the yo-yos. The yoyo border, so much work but so much fun. Sew two sets of five yo-yos together first then sew the rows to the two opposite side of the patchwork block. Then sew another two sets of seven yo-yos and attach them to the other two sides. Just remember to hide the knots when you are sewing.

And of course, I have to (it's a must) chose a pretty back fabric even though it faces the wall. A pretty backing makes me happy.

I'm so in love with this thing on the wall.

ps: I used Clover yoyo maker (small size) to make the yo-yos. It is a fantastic tool if you wish to have.

#handsewpatchwork Block 6: Ribbon

This week's block is another easy one that's fast to sew. It's pretty Ribbon! I took about the same time to sew this as the Bow-Tie block. Because I have received many mails saying that the previous block Basket is a little more difficult to make especially the hand appliqué part. So this week, I decided an easier block so that everyone can have more time to catch up.

If you are struggling with the basket block, make this ribbon block first to make yourself feel better!

<If you do have any questions about hand sewing or any blocks, please feel free to drop me a mail. I will try my best to answer your doubts.>

Before we start, I'll answer two questions:

Q: How do we know how to fold the seams?
A: As a rule of thumb, always fold the seam towards the darker fabric. Usually, we will use a darker fabric to make the object and lighter fabric for the background. By folding towards the darker fabric, you are also making the object "pop out". It makes the block look better!

Q: My hand appliqué looks unnatural, tight and irregular or distorted. What did I do wrong?
A: There's no need to stretch or pull the fabric while pinning. Just guide the fabric naturally to pin in place. And sew part by part because it's impossible to pin all the way then sew nicely. But for needle turn, you can pin halfway or all the way. And remember to snip the curves because it really helps your sewing.

For this Ribbon block, the measurements of the template I've drawn is slightly different from the book. I'm still not so good at using TouchDraw (yes, I use this app).

Download Template 6 Ribbon

Cut out the templates and fabrics. Remember for number 2 and 4, there will be mirror images. To be sure before you cut the fabrics, it's good to lay out the pieces to clearer idea.

First, we sew the upper part of the ribbon. Pin number 2 to number 3 and sew from end-to-point (because we'll be sewing Y-seam later) as pictured. Sew the the mirror image number 2 to the other side of the square. Fold seams inwards towards the square.

Next, you will sew Y-seams by sewing number 1 to the already-pieced ribbon part above. Start sewing from end-to-point, then point-to-point, then point-to-end again. Fold seams downwards.

Now, we will sew the lower part of the ribbon. This part is really straightforward. It's all sewing from end-to-end! So piece the two groups of two triangles together first. Fold the seams towards the darker fabric or the ribbon.

Then sew number 5 to the the previous pieced triangles. Fold the seams outwards.

Lastly, pin and sew the upper and lower parts of the ribbon together. You will be sewing through layers of fabric.

And that's it! You have a pretty ribbon block now!xxx

^^For cross referencing if you have the book, this patchwork block is at page 194.

~please subscribe to this blog if you are following this sew-a-long. I may not post new blocks on the same day every week.~

#handsewpatchwork Block 5: Basket

I'm in love with this week's block. It's Basket. Well, I know I say that for every block! But this block is special, because this is one of the first block I tried when I first starting patchworking. It looks difficult but it's really not.

Imagine flowers in this basket patchwork. How pretty!

For this basket block, you only need to sew all the fabric templates from end-to-end. No more Y-seams! However, we will be trying hand appliqué for the basket handle of this block. Hand appliqué means sewing a fabric onto another fabric to create a pattern or picture. Does it scare you a little just by looking at the curves and turns? No worries, it's actually very enjoyable to hand appliqué! I will show you how while we sew-a-long.

So let's start now. I will not be repeating hand sewing basics anymore so if you are new, please refer to the previous posts for explanations.

Download Template 5 Basket.

Cut out the fabrics and arranged them in your desired arrangement. *important: you have to cut fabric template number 6 (triangle) first before number 5 (handle) if you are only printing one paper. Else you have to print two papers.*

Sew according to the groups labelled A-E.

For group A, sew all the triangles from end-to-end, folding the seam towards the darker fabric (outwards in this case). **Make sure to fold every seam outwards after each triangle is sewn before sewing another triangle. This applies for sewing the rest of the block as well.**

For group B, sew the two triangles on the adjacent sides of the square from end-to-end. Fold the seams outwards too.

For group C, it's end-to-end sewing again. Take note of the positions of the triangles to the rectangles. Fold seams towards the triangles.

Now you can sew groups A, B and C together!

First, sew groups A and B from end-to-end. Always remember to start pinning from the centre to match nicely. You will be sewing through layers of fabrics to secure the seams as well. Make sure you backstitch at meeting points.

Next, sew group C to the already-patched group A and B. Easy peasy here. End-to-end sewing again.

Press all seams inwards here towards the basket. You may wish to bring out your hot iron to flatten down the thick seams.

Now we are going to hand appliqué the handle. I understand there are many ways to do hand appliqué. Most people use freezer paper, some use starch. I actually never use any. It's up to you to decide which method suits you most and that you are most comfortable with. There are also many fantastic youtube videos or tutorials on hand appliqué using freezer paper or starch. You just need to google them.

I do hand applique in the most natural way. It may seem tough at first but once you get the hang of it, it is very easy and enjoyable. I have a few tips:
1. Reduce the seam allowance to half of what you usually do. In my case, I cut all my seam allowance to about 0.5cm when doing hand appliqué.
2. For curves, you can snip the seam allowance for easier turning. However, keep in mind to only snip half of the seam allowance and not all the way!
3. Pin and sew part by part. After you sew that part you pinned, unpin and adjust, then pin the next part. Usually I only use 5-7 pins and I pin them really close together (one to two stitches apart). Do not pin all the way before sewing. It doesn't work this way!
4. If there are curves involved, you may choose to cut the fabric on bias for greater flexibility. I don't usually do that actually.
5. You don't have to pull or stretch the fabric during hand appliqué. Just let the fabric rest naturally so you can pin naturally for hand sewing.

Trace the handle outline onto the fabric. Ensure that the handle is centralised. Start sewing the lower edge of the handle first. Sew from end-to-end.

Remember to sew a part by part using 5-7 pins at a time to guide you before you unpin and move on. Use running stitch and do one back stitch every 5-7 running stitches. There should be no crease or bulging of fabric if you do this way.

This is how the back should look like after sewing.

Now sew the upper edge of the handle. Flip the handle fabric and fold in the seam allowance using the traced lines on both sides as guide (my fingernails help a great deal here!). This is called needle-turn technique.

I actually only learnt about the name "needle turn" in English a few months back! Needle turn sewing is folding in the seam allowance (with fingers) and sewing very close to the edge of the fold to secure an appliqué. You are encouraged to google videos on this technique if you wish too!

I would also encourage you to snip (halfway and not all the way!) the seam allowance at intervals for easier twisting, turning and sewing. And for needle turning, I prefer to pin half of the appliqué to secure it down, unpin then pin the other half and sew all the way.

This is how to hand stitch down the upper part of the handle. The stitches will be slightly visible and it's perfectly normal.

There you are, you finished hand appliqué-ing the handle! The stitches will look different from the back for the upper and lower edge of the handle.

Now comes to the last part to combine all the patches together.

Always find the centre by folding the fabric template into half and mark the crease. Pin the centre first then the rest. Sew all the way from end-to-end.

That's it! You have completed the basket block!

Look at the front and back. Isn't it cute!^_^

Take your time to sew this block but I think it wouldn't take too much of your time because it is pretty straightforward. Perhaps only the hand appliqué will slow you down a little. Just relax and enjoy the sewing process!

#handsewpatchwork Block 4: Heart

Here is block 4 of our #handsewpatchwork sew-a-long! It's Heart. Have I been making too many heart-shaped sewing lately...?

I have received a few mails saying that some of you are experiencing problems dealing with the Y-seam in the last block. It's actually really very straight forward! It goes like this: pin and sew one side (remember to backstitch at last stitch), unpin then shift your fabric to the other side, pin then sew again.

To make my explanation clearer, I did another short to demonstrate. I hope it will answer some of your doubts.

 

For this block, we will be practicing Y-seam again while we wait for others to catch up (yes I hear you from the mails!).

Let's get started now.
Download Template 4 Heart

I have numbered the templates this time (and will do so for subsequent blocks) to be cut out for easier identification.

Trace your templates on your chosen fabrics. Remember that it's mirror images for the heart template. So you have to flip your template number 2 during tracing for this step.

We will sew the heart shape first. Pin and sew (from the tip) from end-to-point.

Press the seam towards darker fabric.

Now we sew the Y-seam at the top of the heart. Pin one side first and sew from end-to-point. Remember to backstitch at the last stitch.

Unpin, shift the fabric to the other side, pin and sew again from point-to-end.

This is how the Y-seam should look like.

Press the seams of the Y-seam down like this.

Lastly, sew all the triangular corners from end-to-end.

For the second bigger triangle (template number 3) that you are sewing, you may encounter sewing many fabrics together. It's thicker but do not worry. Just continue to sew to secure the seam on the opposite side as well.

Fold all the seams inwards and ta-daa!

I think this block is pretty easy and yes, cute too isn't it? I simply love sewing it.

Did I just say the next block will be a little challenging...? xxx

^^For cross referencing if you have the book, this patchwork block is at page 127.

~please subscribe to this blog if you are following this sew-a-long. I may not post new blocks on the same day every week.~